Salman Rashid

Travel writer, Fellow of Royal Geographical Society

Jadoo Nagri Chuttok

Urdu article Jadoonagri Chuttok, the lovely tangi in Moola Valley where water flows everywhere appeared in newspaper Roznama Pakistan [double click the image below to enlarge].
Read more »

Labels: , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00, ,

Moola Pass

Read in Urdu about Moola, the wonderland in Balochistan. This article appeared in newspaper Roznama Pakistan [double click the image below to enlarge].
Read more »

Labels: , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00, ,

Wonderland in Moola

The Moola Gorge, for centuries a favoured route between the Kalat highlands and the fertile plains of Sindh, is a wide u-shaped, well-watered gorge. It cuts clear across the otherwise unbroken barrier of the rugged and barren Khirthar Mountains providing a travel route that could be used by ancient wheeled traffic. Keen to promote this beautiful valley as a tourist destination, a group of local young men have organised a Spartan rest house (N28°-08.754’, E 67°-08.434’) in the Keel hills.


Just behind and to the west of the rest house, the hills are riven by a narrow circuitous chasm, a feature that would be called a tungi in the Pushto-speaking parts of Balochistan. Here in Brahui-speaking Moola Valley, they call it Chuttok – The One that Drips. This is the site that the young men hope to promote.
Read more »

Labels: ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00, ,

Little paradise on earth


Little paradise called Churrok in the Moola Valley

Labels: , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:30, ,

Wish I was there

In September 2006, travelling south from Yarkand to the village of Raskam in the northern fringe of the Aghil Mountains, we stopped at Karghalik. This, a remote corner of Xinjiang province of China, was where caravans from India rested after breaking out of the mountains on their long trek over the Karakoram Pass. We too rested for a couple of days, but only because my trekking permit was taking forever to be granted.

We eventually did leave Karghalik but rather late in the day and were benighted at a place called Mazar. It was midnight when we arrived and the village was asleep. In the light of the full moon I could see about two dozen lorries parked in an open lot and my guide told me they were all heading for Tibet. The road forked at Mazar; ours went straight down southward and the Tibet road veered off to the east. My guide also said that his company ran tours from Karghalik to Lhasa.
Read more »

Labels: , , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00, ,

History’s Highway

At the end of his Indian Campaigns, while resting his troops at Patala (Hyderabad) in the autumn of the year 325 BCE, Alexander of Macedonia trifurcated his army. One section under his own command was to march south to where Karachi now stands and then up north to Lasbela, thence westward to Turbat, south to Gwadar and eventually via Kerman to Babylonia.


The other two parts were to rendezvous with the young conqueror in Babylonia by two different routes. One under the command of the general Nearchus was to sail down the great Sindhu River to the Indian Ocean and coast westward. The third division under the aging Krateros was to take the heavy transport and ten thousand retired veterans back to Babylonia by the Helmand Valley in modern Afghanistan and Hamadan in Iran.

Read more »

Labels: , , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00, ,

Moola: pass of the King’s Highway

On the exit march after his ‘Indian Campaign,’ Alexander the Macedonian fetched up in the city of Patala (Hyderabad) in September 325 BCE. It was time for him to shed some of his old pensioners. And so the aged general Krateros was given charge of ten thousand veterans to lead home to retirement. The route Alexander wanted Krateros to explore and map was the direct Barbarikan-Arachosia highroad.


Now, Barbarikan was the famous and prosperous mart on the Sindh seaboard by a mouth of the Indus River. We today know it as the ruined city of Bhambor; Arachosia was the Helmand Valley of Afghanistan. This ancient route lies sandwiched between the modern Indus Highway to the east and the great barrier of the Khirthar Mountains to the west and was in use until the 1940s when the new black top highway was laid. Now only local camel caravans ply its ancient and arid loneliness.
Read more »

Labels: , , ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 10:16, ,

Wish I was there

There are some places in Balochistan that I have never been to. One is the Mashkai Valley which stretches northward from Awaran (this lies on the direct road from Lasbela to Turbat). This is a very beautiful valley and I heard of it when we were making Sindhia mein Sikander in November 2001 and spent a night at Awaran.
 
 
The other place is again in Balochistan. For years I wanted to hire a camel near Nal and trek down the Hingol River all the way to the sea. In the upper reach the river is hardly anything to be excited about. But as you near the Rudia hills, the scenery becomes very dramatic and carries on that way all the way to the seaboard.
Read more »

Labels: ,

posted by Salman Rashid @ 17:54, ,




My Books

Deosai: Land of the Gaint - New

The Apricot Road to Yarkand


Jhelum: City of the Vitasta

Sea Monsters and the Sun God: Travels in Pakistan

Salt Range and Potohar Plateau

Prisoner on a Bus: Travel Through Pakistan

Between Two Burrs on the Map: Travels in Northern Pakistan

Gujranwala: The Glory That Was

Riders on the Wind

Books at Sang-e-Meel

Books of Days