Fata in 1980s
03 June 2018
September 1985. I was freewheeling in what was then North-West Frontier Province. One evening I found myself in Bannu in a really ratty dosshouse — the only place to overnight in town. Having dined on mutton karahi (I had then not gone vegetarian), I was downing my second pot of qahwa when this large man plonked himself across me from my tin table.
Railway merits a revamp in the area
In thickly accented Pashtun Urdu he asked me where I was from, and if I had seen Miran Shah. I hadn’t, I said. And the man offered to take me there. With no real plans of going anywhere I agreed. The man got up, righted his black and grey turban and said, “Chalo!”
Read more »Labels: FATA, Khyber-Pukhtunkhwa, Motorcycle Diaries
posted by Salman Rashid @ 12:54,
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Walking in Waziristan
06 December 2014
In June 2003, I travelled in South Waziristan without let or hindrance and with the heart utterly free of the dread of being kidnapped to be gruesomely beheaded by some fifteen year-old lunatic or of being shot and killed. From Tank, I was driven to Jandola whose very name strikes terror in the stoutest Pakistani heart. And then through Ladda up into the higher mountains, perhaps passing the compound that sheltered bin Laden or the mad doctor Al Zawahiri or the one-eyed mullah of Kandahar.
At Larimai, we gave up the pick-up truck and walked. Our objective that day was the peak of Pir Ghal (or Ghar), 3515 metres above the sea and well inside the Mahsud heartland. Young Khalid Mahmood, the local tehsildar had organised a guide for me. Bearded Zahir Shah came with a grim set to his mouth, few words for he spoke only his native Pashto and a Kalashnikov rifle slung over his shoulder together with a holstered pistol and a wicked-looking knife in the waistband. Zahir Shah had also let the word out about the man visiting from Lahore and some fifteen of his friends tagged along as well. All of them, fine Mahsud lads, loaded down with enough weapons and ammo to start a major war in Waziristan.
Read more »Labels: FATA, Khyber-Pukhtunkhwa
posted by Salman Rashid @ 00:00,
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